Arnold
CibbuanoFixing Cracked Brickwork
June 22nd 2006 00:21
So time for some remedies. If the cause of the cracking is due to tree damage it is essential to get to the root of the problem before making any fixes to the home’s walls. Why? - because any remedies are going to be short term. The cause of the problem is not resolved. Now how do we solve the problem of tree damage?
Trees can suck an amazing amount of water out of the surrounding soil system. An averaged sized tree can gulp up several hundred litres of water out of the surrounding soil daily. When there are sufficient wet spells to keep the water hungry tree at bay, there shouldn’t be any problems with ground shrinkage. When there are extended dry periods (like the drought conditions experienced in NSW at the moment), the soil can become dehydrated, the foundations will move and the brickwork may crack.
To remedy this situation, firstly investigate ways of introducing more water into the area. An irrigation system or simply watering your plants more often may assist in fixing the problem. Aim to keep the area around the tree constantly moist. Regular pruning may help ease the hydration needs of the tree, but this must become a permanent maintenance activity. The other alternative is to remove and/or relocate the trees. During times of drought and water conservation, removal or relocation of trees is possibly the most feasible option. The influence of tree drying settlement is finite and confined to a given radius. The radius of influence can be estimate from the above ground proportions of the tree. A good guide is to assume that the radius of the root system is proportional to the height of the tree.
The more expensive options include drill holes into the soil with an auger approximately 1.5m deep and close to the wall which has suffered cracking. Water is constantly poured into these holes to a constant level to get moisture back to the soil. Copper sulphate or other root suppressant chemicals are also added to repel the approach of the tree’s roots. Similar holes are drilled into the soil on the side of the tree away from the house. These holes are then filled with water and nutrients which will attract tree roots in their general direction. The most drastic and expensive solution is underpinning. This involves the removal of soil beneath the problem wall and its replacement with concrete. Underpinning is an awkward process and must be done correctly to not provide further structural problems. The new footings must be properly designed by a certified professional. You will be required to get council approval for any underpinning work.
If you do find cracking due to tree drying settlement it is important NOT to fill any emerging cracks with material. This is because when the natural hydration levels are re-established the structure will naturally want to recluse these cracks. If material is preventing the cracks from closing stresses and cracking will possibly result in other areas of the structure.
Trees can suck an amazing amount of water out of the surrounding soil system. An averaged sized tree can gulp up several hundred litres of water out of the surrounding soil daily. When there are sufficient wet spells to keep the water hungry tree at bay, there shouldn’t be any problems with ground shrinkage. When there are extended dry periods (like the drought conditions experienced in NSW at the moment), the soil can become dehydrated, the foundations will move and the brickwork may crack.
To remedy this situation, firstly investigate ways of introducing more water into the area. An irrigation system or simply watering your plants more often may assist in fixing the problem. Aim to keep the area around the tree constantly moist. Regular pruning may help ease the hydration needs of the tree, but this must become a permanent maintenance activity. The other alternative is to remove and/or relocate the trees. During times of drought and water conservation, removal or relocation of trees is possibly the most feasible option. The influence of tree drying settlement is finite and confined to a given radius. The radius of influence can be estimate from the above ground proportions of the tree. A good guide is to assume that the radius of the root system is proportional to the height of the tree.
The more expensive options include drill holes into the soil with an auger approximately 1.5m deep and close to the wall which has suffered cracking. Water is constantly poured into these holes to a constant level to get moisture back to the soil. Copper sulphate or other root suppressant chemicals are also added to repel the approach of the tree’s roots. Similar holes are drilled into the soil on the side of the tree away from the house. These holes are then filled with water and nutrients which will attract tree roots in their general direction. The most drastic and expensive solution is underpinning. This involves the removal of soil beneath the problem wall and its replacement with concrete. Underpinning is an awkward process and must be done correctly to not provide further structural problems. The new footings must be properly designed by a certified professional. You will be required to get council approval for any underpinning work.
If you do find cracking due to tree drying settlement it is important NOT to fill any emerging cracks with material. This is because when the natural hydration levels are re-established the structure will naturally want to recluse these cracks. If material is preventing the cracks from closing stresses and cracking will possibly result in other areas of the structure.
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