Arnold
CibbuanoFixing a leaking cistern part II
September 1st 2006 00:11
The following is the continuation of the previous post concerning the fixing of a leaking toilet cistern...
When the float rises, it pulls up that vertical arm. This has a piston head type arrangement attached to it. Basically, the float will reach a certain point due to the water rising to a certain level and the vertical piston head will be pulled up tight against a mating surface and form a seal. Presto, your toilet cistern has filled to its required capacity and the inlet valve is also shut off.
So if your cistern is leaking due to a faulty washer what is actually happening is that you are not getting a proper seal. Water continues to leak out if the cistern and the inlet pipe is never properly shut off. Phew, its hard to explain in words. The best way of figuring it all out is to have a good look around in that cistern and see how the mechanics of it all works. It’s pretty clever and not exactly rocket science.
But back to the task or refitting a fresh washer. Use your pliers to remove the split pin holding the floating arm to the outlet valve assembly. To locate, follow the push button rod all the way down and the tubing that it leads into is the valve assembly you are interested in. Unscrew the cap of the valve assembly and pull out the piston that is inside. There will be a washer at the end of the piston. Simply pull off the old washer and replace with your new one.
Now reassemble your cistern. Put the piston back into the outlet valve, rescrew on the cap, reattach the float mechanism and your done with all the tricky parts. You’ll need to charge the cistern so fill it with water using a bucket. It takes a hell of a lot of water so go for the bucket and bath tub option rather than the cup and vanity sink refill (you’ll be there all evening otherwise.) There is an overflow tube in your toilet which will signal when the cistern has hit its desired capacity. Fill the cistern to the overflow tube. It doesn’t matter if some water spills over. Unscrew the inlet tap which you turned off before this entire operation started. Give the toilet a flush and check to see everything is working ok.
If the new washer is working a charm, the cistern will stop filling with water when float pulls its piston up tight against the valve assembly and an efficient seal is formed. If the home DIY job has gone to plan, pop the lid back onto the cistern and glow in your sense of accomplishment.
When the float rises, it pulls up that vertical arm. This has a piston head type arrangement attached to it. Basically, the float will reach a certain point due to the water rising to a certain level and the vertical piston head will be pulled up tight against a mating surface and form a seal. Presto, your toilet cistern has filled to its required capacity and the inlet valve is also shut off.
So if your cistern is leaking due to a faulty washer what is actually happening is that you are not getting a proper seal. Water continues to leak out if the cistern and the inlet pipe is never properly shut off. Phew, its hard to explain in words. The best way of figuring it all out is to have a good look around in that cistern and see how the mechanics of it all works. It’s pretty clever and not exactly rocket science.
But back to the task or refitting a fresh washer. Use your pliers to remove the split pin holding the floating arm to the outlet valve assembly. To locate, follow the push button rod all the way down and the tubing that it leads into is the valve assembly you are interested in. Unscrew the cap of the valve assembly and pull out the piston that is inside. There will be a washer at the end of the piston. Simply pull off the old washer and replace with your new one.
Now reassemble your cistern. Put the piston back into the outlet valve, rescrew on the cap, reattach the float mechanism and your done with all the tricky parts. You’ll need to charge the cistern so fill it with water using a bucket. It takes a hell of a lot of water so go for the bucket and bath tub option rather than the cup and vanity sink refill (you’ll be there all evening otherwise.) There is an overflow tube in your toilet which will signal when the cistern has hit its desired capacity. Fill the cistern to the overflow tube. It doesn’t matter if some water spills over. Unscrew the inlet tap which you turned off before this entire operation started. Give the toilet a flush and check to see everything is working ok.
If the new washer is working a charm, the cistern will stop filling with water when float pulls its piston up tight against the valve assembly and an efficient seal is formed. If the home DIY job has gone to plan, pop the lid back onto the cistern and glow in your sense of accomplishment.
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